Branch. What it is? Brunch - what is this concept? What is the difference between lunch and brunch

11.06.2022

In Europe, the tradition of brunch, that is, breakfast, smoothly flowing into lunch, has more than a hundred years. For the first time, the British writer Guy Beringer spoke in detail about this phenomenon in an essay "Brunch: Excuse" published in 1895 in the journal Hunter's Weekly. In particular, Beringer wondered why not replace England's traditional early Sunday lunches, this "post-church test of heavy meats and savory pies," with a new meal that is served around noon and begins with tea, coffee, marmalade and other breakfast items, and then moves on to something more substantial. “Brunch is fun, sociable, and upbeat. It encourages communication, gives a good mood and a sense of contentment with oneself and one's neighbors, it sweeps away all the worries and intricacies of the working week, ”wrote Guy Beringer. In the 1930s, with the help of Hollywood stars, accustomed to getting up late after wild parties, brunches became popular in the United States. In Moscow, this format began to appear about ten years ago, but mainly in restaurants at hotels - for example, in a restaurant "A park" hotel Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow brunches have been held since the mid-2000s. “For a long time, we were faced with the opinion that brunch, in general, is an exclusively Western European heritage, which is honored mainly by foreigners who have moved with their families to Russia,” says Stephen Ansell, general manager of the hotel. “Now I can definitely say that brunch is the favorite format of long family feasts for many Muscovites.” Recently, brunches have begun to appear in many establishments - from Saxon + Password and OliOli before Bao+Bar and Beer Happens. In some restaurants, these are just separate menus for those who woke up at one in the afternoon and want to combine both breakfast and lunch, but do not want to cook. In others, there are entire social events. But in any case, this format has already taken root in Moscow: according to the CEO "Turandot" Artem Sibiryakov, on average, 400-450 people come to the restaurant for brunches over the weekend. Brunches in "Ararat Park Hyatt" every Sunday is visited by about 100 guests, and the hotel "Metropol"— from 170 to 220 people. Anna Demyanova, Head of F&B Department "Metropolis" notes that the majority of visitors are not hotel guests, and only 25-30% of foreign guests are foreigners.

"Southerners"

Time: Sundays from 12:00 to 17:00

In the restaurant that opened this summer on Akademika Sakharova Avenue, brunches are arranged on a southern scale. Children are treated free of charge, and adults for 1,500 rubles. provide unlimited access to the brunch menu, which includes about 25 items: salads, appetizers, specially prepared pastries and hot dishes. In addition, each time the chef of the restaurant, Roman Shubin, prepares a special menu: for example, fish and seafood, roasted veal or suckling pig. This year, the last Sunday brunch will take place on December 4, as the rest of the weekend is already booked for corporate parties. And from January 2 to January 8, late breakfasts, flowing into lunches, will be served daily to the delight of everyone who has already eaten homemade "Russian salad". After that, brunches will take place as usual.

There is nothing surprising in the fact that the popularity of this format is growing. Firstly, residents of the metropolis wake up late after Saturday parties and go to breakfast closer to noon. Secondly, brunch is a good reason to go somewhere with the whole family or meet with a large group if you don’t want to host friends at home. “In our restaurant, brunches are popular with guests of all ages, however, as a rule, these are still families with children,” says Artem Sibiryakov. “But this is not just a Sunday family trip to a restaurant, but an opportunity to taste the restaurant's traditional menu in unlimited quantities for a fixed and affordable fee. And the availability of unlimited alcohol makes brunch a very popular format for celebrating a birthday. In this case, you do not need to worry about the final cost of the feast (it is known in advance), and burden yourself with the search for animators to entertain children.

"Metropol"

Time: Sundays from 13:00 to 17:00

In a hotel "Metropol" arrange, perhaps, the best brunches in Moscow. Firstly, there is a very large menu: you can start with traditional pancakes, continue with soups and all kinds of snacks, including salads close to the Russian heart and stomach. "Metropolitan" and jelly, and persimmon with goat cheese, and finish hot with dumplings with pike or veal teriyaki. In addition, the menu is updated every week. Secondly, guests are not only fed, but also entertained: for adults, they conduct a tour of the hotel, and for children - interactive quests. Thirdly, a visitor who celebrates his birthday at the brunch is presented with a set of cakes made by the hotel's pastry chef Atilla Sabo. Fourthly, there is a system of discounts: if a guest makes an advance payment for 7 days, then the discount is 7%, and if for 14 days - respectively, 14%. Children under 6 years old are treated free of charge. The cost of a brunch with alcohol will be 5,400 rubles, without alcohol - 4,450 rubles, for children from 6 years old - 1,600 rubles. brunch "Premium" with premium varieties of champagne, whiskey and cognac will cost 8,400 rubles.

Saxon + Password

Time: every weekend from 10:00 to 16:00

AT Saxon + Password there is a correct brunch menu: positions for those who want to have breakfast are combined with appetizers, salads and hot dishes. There is no buffet system here: all dishes must be ordered separately. Which does not detract from the merits of cheesecakes with lemon sour cream (390 rubles), hummus with pickled sockeye salmon (390 rubles), pastrami with confit potatoes and egg (490 rubles) and stewed beef cheeks with polenta and chimichurri sauce (750 rubles) . A hit in the soup section is the Singaporean laksa with rice noodles and Thai basil, the recipe of which is the brand chef Saxon + Password Brad Fermery took from the menu of his New York restaurant Public(1*Michelin). Children are treated to burgers: Mac&Cheese with a sauce of three types of cheese (330 rubles) and a mini-version of the branded S+P burger with double cheese and french fries (550 rubles). For entertainment, guests can prepare their own version of the famous cocktail "Bloody Mary": on a special stand Bloody Mary Bar they will make a base of vodka and tomato juice, in which you can add about 40 spices, as well as pickled and fresh vegetables.

"Turandot"

Time: every weekend from 13:00 to 17:30

The restaurant's traditional brunch menu includes cold and hot appetizers, Chinese, Japanese and Italian dishes and all kinds of desserts. Once a month, themed brunches are held, such as oyster weekends or gastronomic tours of chefs from around the world. Younger guests are entertained here with puppet shows or cooking classes, so adults can safely drink sparkling wine and enjoy small talk. The cost of a brunch with alcohol is 5200 rubles, without alcohol - 4350 rubles, for children - 1450 rubles.

In general, yes, they are everywhere. And chances are your favorite bar will have brunch soon too.

But what the hell is it, where did it come from and why are brunches so popular now? Let's figure it out. Well, let's add the bartender's point of view, of course. We are here, for drinks, including explaining.

Let's start with the official definition. Here's what Wikipedia tells us:

“Brunch is a combination of breakfast and lunch eaten usually during the late morning to early afternoon, generally served from 10am up to 2pm, and regularly has some form of alcoholic drink (most usually champagne or a cocktail) served with it. The word is a portmanteau of breakfast and lunch. Brunch originated in England in the late 19th century and became popular in the United States in the 1930s.”
wikipedia

I translate: Brunch is a combination of breakfast and lunch (lunch), which is usually served from late morning to early lunch, usually from 10 am to 2 pm. Usually, the brunch is served with some kind of alcoholic drink (most often it is champagne or a cocktail). The name itself is a combination of the English words breafast (breakfast) and lunch (lunch). The brunch originated in England at the end of the 19th century and became popular in the US in the 1930s.

So, let's figure out how it appeared, why it became popular and what does the shampoo and cocktail have to do with it.

How did brunches and what for?

As with any decent cocktail, there are several legends about the appearance of brunch.

Someone says that the origins of brunch in England are closely related to hunting dinners, which differed from picnics in the abundance of assorted snacks and drinks. In fact, everything was put on the table (or rather, a tablecloth that was spread out on the edge of the forest): meat and cheese, vegetables and boiled eggs, sandwiches, sweets, fruits. Naturally, such dinners were accompanied by a variety of drinks, from tea and coffee to beer and something stronger.

Another version connects the appearance of brunches with the Catholic tradition of not having breakfast before the morning mass in the church, and, accordingly, after visiting the church, arrange a late family (and necessarily hearty) breakfast.

Another version is that brunches appeared in New York (who would doubt) as a Sunday tradition in the Jewish quarters, because Jews do not go to church on Sundays (they don’t go to church at all), and to start the weekend with the whole family, they gathered for late leisurely breakfast in a cafe near the house. Allegedly, this is why brunches are associated with a leisurely start to the weekend with family or friends. But, this version does not say anything about why alcohol was served with brunches. We'll get back to New York-style brunches, though.

The term "brunch" itself was coined by Guy Beringer, an author in the British magazine Hunter's Weekly in an 1895 publication. The very name of the magazine seems to hint at the fact that the legend with hunting breakfasts is more plausible.

Mr. Beringer suggested an interesting fusion of breakfast and lunch as an alternative to the tradition of eating a lot after going to church on Sunday. In those days, after the church it was customary to really eat a lot. Meat pie, fried meat, bread, cheese, etc. were put on the table. It was really difficult to call it a “snack”.

As an alternative, the author suggested serving a variety of light snacks, sandwiches and what was usually served for breakfast and lunch, and to even more lift the mood and guarantee a positive mood for the whole Sunday, it was proposed to replace traditional coffee and tea with beer and whiskey neat or with soda.

This is what brunch looked like in the thirties. (photo source)

The main idea of the brunch was not so much satiety as the opportunity to communicate with loved ones without being too distracted by food.

This is how the tradition of brunches appeared in England. It all started with light, and most importantly, a variety of snacks, accompanied by "cheerful" drinks.

In general, round off - brunch appeared as a light but long snack on Sunday. Its purpose is to gather everyone at one table in an atmosphere where you can not only eat but also communicate. For this, you could drink something alcoholic, such as beer or a simple mix of drinks.

Brunches in the USA

How and why did brunches appear in the States? First of all - thanks to the economic boom and industrialization. Secondly, the fact that on Sundays restaurants did not work in the USA, and people wanted to eat.

With the development of the economy, the welfare of the population and the development of infrastructure, families in which both spouses worked were less and less able to gather at the same table with the whole family. And family dinner is an important part of American family culture. Surely each of you can remember at least a few episodes from American films, where there is a drama about the fact that one of the family members does not have time for a family dinner. This is the same mandatory part of family traditions as the presence of both parents at the child's first performance at school or graduation.

So, what is happening then? Americans are beginning to live better, earn money and travel for work reasons. There is less time for food (hello, fast food) and ... brunches appear.

Brunch made popular by Hollywood stars. Due to filming, they often had to travel from city to city by train, and, being not so early, in the morning they were looking for places to eat in the city. Breakfast time was already over, and it was still a long time before lunch. And so brunches were born. And, most likely, since we are talking about movie stars, they were not averse to throwing a glass of champagne right at breakfast.

And this is eighties brunch. Fruit, shrimp, bubbles. (photo source)

Ordinary working people also liked the brunches. It all started as usual, on Sunday. Brunch at your favorite cafe close to home is the perfect way to spend time with your family. Day off, you can sleep, get ready, sit in my father's Buick and go to breakfast. Again, on a day off at brunch, dad can afford a glass of beer, and mom can afford champagne. In general, it turns out the perfect combo for both guests and restaurateurs.

By the way, about the last. There is a version that brunches in the US originally appeared in the “takeaway” format, because restaurants did not work on Sundays, but in order not to lose potential profits, they began to offer ready-made brunch sets for those who “lingered” at Saturday parties. And what? It’s convenient, after the party, to stop by your favorite restaurant, take a lunch box with you and go home.

Bagels!

Well, in general, the popularity of these “doughnut-shaped, egg-flavored, glossy-rind” bagels (as one journalist described them in their early days, is closely related to the popularity of brunches. A few bagels with cream cheese and thinly sliced smoked salmon were sold as a ready-made “takeaway” set not only in cafes, but also in gourmet shops.

And yet, in the fifties, the military was pleased to feed such sets for free in a cafe. Therefore, it is not surprising that bagels have become popular in the army. By the way, they were popular in army canteens before that, but not in the format of a “sandwich” with cream cheese and salmon.

Thinly sliced smoked salmon, by the way, was called - belly lox. Most likely, these were trimmings from the belly of a red fish. Therefore, in fact, the shops selling meat and fish served bagels.

By the end of the fifties, brunches had become a common theme in both casual cafes and high-end restaurants. For many, brunch has become an excuse to skip a couple of mid-afternoon cocktails. The occasions were different - from a standard snack during brunch, to concerts of local bands. Live soul and jazz in the middle of Sunday, with a couple of screwdrivers or sours? Nice.

Of course, over time, many establishments began to exploit the popularity of brunches and offered a “regular” menu under their guise. Many restaurant critics of that time complained - you come to brunch, and you are offered club sandwiches and steaks, and no traditional egg dishes for brunch: benedict, pancakes, waffles.

But, there were also places faithful to traditions. With waffles, bagels and bloody mary.

Modern theme with brunches.

If we are talking about a modern brunch, then most likely we are talking about a modern version of the New York brunch. Bagels, egg benedict (there is a version that this cooking method was invented in New York), that's all.

The "package" style of brunch originated in New York. Cafes in the center began to offer a brunch option for party-goers after Saturday. The idea is as simple as the world - a quick and hearty meal and go home. After all, each of us has a favorite place that ends the party. And the place is not with booze, but with food.

In the same place, in New York, alcoholic and non-alcoholic brunches became popular. Those who wanted to get in shape after the party were offered a non-alcoholic version of the bloody Mary, and those who planned to continue the fun - an alcoholic Mary, beer or mimosa.

Over time, a tradition was formed to go to brunches on Sunday mornings. Fresh and well-rested guests mixed with drunken revelers. New York style, what can I say.

But still, how is brunch different from breakfast or lunch?

The main difference between brunch is variety. Often, brunches are organized in a buffet style - with traditional dishes for breakfast (eggs, sometimes cereals) and for lunch (meat, sandwiches). Plus, alcohol. The result is brunch: it's when you can eat porridge, parma with chorizo cheese, and polish it all with a glass of sparkling bagel. Combo!

What do we see in modern brunches?

Or New York style - a combo set of a bowl, or a sandwich with a drink and some other little things. Or the traditional style - snack buffet and prosecco bar.

Judging by the Internet, the first option with a separate brunch menu is more common in St. Petersburg. Fashionistas, New York style, everything is clear.

Moscow pleases with a variety of brunch buffets. Disappointing at the price. But, this is Moscow, a heavy suite. All clear.

We have an interest in brunches, and it is growing a little. And all why? Because, firstly, the new format - this topic is usually successful for us. Secondly, a no longer fashionable lunch can be disguised as a new trendy brunch. One letter on the menu and you're done. Third, alcohol. It is not shameful to offer drinks of varying degrees of “efficiency” to brunch, from a glass of sparkling wine in trendy gourmet restaurants to a simple and tasty cocktail in establishments with a drinking theme.

By the way, about drinks.

Their evolution in the brunch format is also quite remarkable. We remember that it all started with the replacement of coffee and tea for beer and whiskey. If in England beer retained its position in the brunch menu (they make, for example, shandy based on beer and do not steam), then in the USA, closer to the sixties, beer gave way to wine. And it all started in the States with mocktails and beer, beer - for a man, a woman - a mocktail. Because tradition and she generally had to cook all this brunch at home, for example.

In the sixties, morals became more unbridled, wine became more popular. Therefore, bubbles burst into brunches in all their glory. Although, the suffering, of course, was not denied a bloody Mary or a bottle of beer.

Little has changed since the sixties - bubbles in their pure form were replaced by cocktails based on them (hello mimosa lovers), bloody mery in variations with alcohol and without it has not gone away, and beer has returned. Craft brewers are not averse to offering some juicy IPU with a bagel, or a refreshing weiss. Gastronomy, everything.

So what's next?

What remains to be expected by regular imbibers? Far from English and American delights? Humble yourself.

The brunches are here and they're not going anywhere. Restaurateurs have realized all the benefits - to drive away stagnant wine and stale avocado baguette on Saturdays and Sundays, a holy cause. Expect all sorts of brunchers - after all, the tradition of a slow feast of the weekend is in almost every culture.

We have a seemingly harmless tea party. You start with tea with lemon and do not have time to notice how sausage, and lard, and sprats, and the remains of the cake are on the table. Day off, maybe. In Asia - a separate dim sum theme, tea and dim sum, dim sum and tea, and a palette of sauces. Europe has its own brunches, France has its own buffet, that is, a buffet after breakfast. Cheeses, wine, fruits and all sorts of things. Well, England and the USA - of course, there are a lot of brunches: sausages and pancakes, cereals and bagels, sparkling and beer, everything is fine and everyone is fine.

How to make yourself fall in love with brunch? Think of it like the coolest version of a business lunch: coughing up questions over bacon and avocado and a glass of beer? Nice.

And remember the main rule - brunch is about communication, a snack and a drink. Without a drink, lunch will do, and even a tray in the dining room.

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“What is the concept of brunch?” my sister asked me, with whom we went to the Ararat Park Hyatt on Sunday for this “breakfast + lunch”. The question took me by surprise.

In theory, of course, I know what brunch is.

But what is its essence? Who invented it? Why do self-respecting hotels offer Sunday brunches, and for many they have even become a “calling card”? And who is brunch for?

Thinking about it, I made an assumption based on the personal experience of a person who likes to sleep a lot on the weekend: when you wake up at about 2 o'clock in commercials, it seems to be too late to have breakfast. Although it’s a pity not to have breakfast - once you wake up, then it’s morning.

Branch solved this dilemma - in the person of either the British or the Americans - opinions differ on this matter (yes, I decided to study the issue). In any case, the term appeared at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. Most likely in England. Like, why not make life easier for Saturday night owls by serving food around noon instead of the usual early breakfast? This will add happiness to mankind, the British reasonably considered.

“Brunch is a time of joy, fellowship and exchange of energy.
It improves mood, gives a sense of satisfaction with oneself
and those around, erases worries and destroys cobwebs,
who have entangled you for a week,

so the writer Guy Beringer wrote about brunch in 1895, and he is credited with the authorship of the concept.

“Brunch takes place in a relaxed atmosphere with the motto “Relax, you’re not at work,” says Wikipedia (stingy compared to cobwebs).

In addition to the relaxed atmosphere, getting rid of worries and other advantages of Sunday brunches, this is a great gift. And, in my opinion, original, especially for men.

In addition to Moscow, I remember two more brunches - in St. Petersburg and Miami. I will tell you more about these three places.

Time - from 12.00 to 16.00.

You need to book a table in advance - there are many people who want to. Three types of brunches are offered - with wine, sparkling wine and champagne (accordingly, with wine is the cheapest).

fusion kitchen. We liked fresh fish, spinach salad with walnuts and panna cotta with raspberries the most.

The service is excellent. As for the liberated atmosphere, I'm not sure - the audience is still very respectable. However, this did not stop us from throwing MyKi and Key-to-Ki decorations on the table, sticking earrings into the cake, and pouring liquid chocolate on the bracelets - we got great photos for social networks. So we ate deliciously, and rested, and worked.

Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, St. Petersburg,
restaurant "Europe"

Time - from 13.00 to 16.30, reservation is needed - Petersburgers love brunches in Europe.

Sunday brunches have been served at Europa Restaurant for over 20 years. Here I practically felt the atmosphere with my hands: a hall under the vaults of the last century, which has seen so many interesting people, survived so many eras; celebrities sitting at their tables at ease, confident that no one will disturb them - the hotel management carefully protects the peace of their guests; the head waiter of the "old school", who personally welcomes visitors - it is clear that they are regulars here; live jazz.

There is such an abundance on the menu that it is not just breakfast + lunch, but also + afternoon tea and dinner. The highlight of the serving is an indispensable appetizer with caviar. Pay attention to the "magic" cart with twelve types of caviar (!). Hot is chosen a la carte, and the menu includes favorite dishes from all the restaurants of the hotel.

At the display window with desserts, I, a sweet tooth, got lost in society. It was impossible to choose. At the time of my visit there was no game of petanque during brunch. There is a reason to return - I have never played petanque.

Time - from 10.00 to 16.00.

Reservations are required - The Biltmore Brunch is in the top of all restaurant ratings in South Florida, so it can not hold popularity.

In general, Miamians love Sunday brunches. And everyone with whom I discussed this topic unanimously agreed: brunch at Biltmore is the best. “The only castle in Miami” is the affectionate name given to the hotel building by the locals. It reminded us more of Stalinist architecture - externally, but inside - especially in the courtyard where brunch is held - one can feel the colonial style.

Sitting at a wrought-iron table next to the fountain, we ordered a Bellini and didn’t go to the buffet for a long time - we didn’t even want to get up. Dasha Kokeeva (born July 23, 1980, Budapest) is a journalist by education, worked in fashion PR for many years. Now he is a co-owner of the jewelry brand MyKi. He believes that success comes to those who do what they love.